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would love to give that try, what software do you use for your 3D CAD drawings?
Photos Your latest or Notable purchases
- Thread starter Bombardier
- Start date
Fussion 360 is popular free and you need to spendtime deciphering the video instructions as they change the program with upgrades. Then you can't follow their instruction...you get like half way through and then the button to do whatever next is missing.
Then again you don't need to go to university to get a degree on it , its pretty neat what is free and opensourced. They have a paid one which can do more easily. The free one has a timeline that is very useful so during the design process you can go back and edit a drawing or feature and it will edit the final design.
Tinkercad is actually pretty neat, you can frankenstien models by chopping and adding parts sections and and actually come up with improved stuff without much skill. You need to copy the design and paste the change and repeat this process all the way along incase you find you want to change something from midpoint, ends up looking like a virual assembly line.
Seriously this last month I became a hobit, sleeping strange hours didn't go out.
Get a filament dryer and some vacuum bags to store it with a desicant bag.
PEI plate and I like the Prusa glue. Periodically clean plate with water and dishwash soap, the glue can build up, I was patching it and this was ok but sometimes ends up in a bad print and give uneven reading for the lidar(i suspect) lay on a layer of the glue and give time to dry properly and should be good. After removing models hit it with some isopropyl and clean rag(not fluffy cotton can leave behind bits of material) to remove any created oils and resmooths the surface abit and can reprint same place. Usually you can print same place anyway but some filaments can give greif.
Do models on corners and rotate the plate 90 degrees so you get 4 good surfaces.
Started using a .6mm nozzle for speed (use high speed filament)but its not as neat as the .4mm and .4mm is easy to print with.
.6 first layer is .15mm high to squish it on the plate to stick. .2 to .15 is nessesary first layer height.
If you are in the EU get the Prusa filaments. China plays the big game but its not. Their stuff here is affordable though and ok if you do everything right.
Been using esun and bambu HS filament ok.
These things and CNC machines will give back the maker to our countries. Who knows how much AI will simplify the programs, using past designs and offering alternative solutions.
If I had one thing to say about it is the first layer is everything.
Then again you don't need to go to university to get a degree on it , its pretty neat what is free and opensourced. They have a paid one which can do more easily. The free one has a timeline that is very useful so during the design process you can go back and edit a drawing or feature and it will edit the final design.
Tinkercad is actually pretty neat, you can frankenstien models by chopping and adding parts sections and and actually come up with improved stuff without much skill. You need to copy the design and paste the change and repeat this process all the way along incase you find you want to change something from midpoint, ends up looking like a virual assembly line.
Seriously this last month I became a hobit, sleeping strange hours didn't go out.
Get a filament dryer and some vacuum bags to store it with a desicant bag.
PEI plate and I like the Prusa glue. Periodically clean plate with water and dishwash soap, the glue can build up, I was patching it and this was ok but sometimes ends up in a bad print and give uneven reading for the lidar(i suspect) lay on a layer of the glue and give time to dry properly and should be good. After removing models hit it with some isopropyl and clean rag(not fluffy cotton can leave behind bits of material) to remove any created oils and resmooths the surface abit and can reprint same place. Usually you can print same place anyway but some filaments can give greif.
Do models on corners and rotate the plate 90 degrees so you get 4 good surfaces.
Started using a .6mm nozzle for speed (use high speed filament)but its not as neat as the .4mm and .4mm is easy to print with.
.6 first layer is .15mm high to squish it on the plate to stick. .2 to .15 is nessesary first layer height.
If you are in the EU get the Prusa filaments. China plays the big game but its not. Their stuff here is affordable though and ok if you do everything right.
Been using esun and bambu HS filament ok.
These things and CNC machines will give back the maker to our countries. Who knows how much AI will simplify the programs, using past designs and offering alternative solutions.
If I had one thing to say about it is the first layer is everything.
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Orange Bambu HF petg Grey eSun petg or one kilo of hell as I like to call it. Still have a kilo of orange the poor machine will be forced to deal with.
Infill adaptive cubic good for flexing parts , easy on machine
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Few things another Patagonia waterproof jacket , Dakine goretex gloves , charger , Rucksack bag cover , Sprayon waterproofer ..
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We got our tax refund, most of which will be used to pay property tax, but there was enough left over to score a toy! An imperial railway sword this time. I see them occasionally on Euro auction sites, but finally found on online at a price I could afford. This is pre-WW1, the seller told me.
It's hard to imagine climbing onto the locomotive and not banging it around to destruction. But you never know when you might have to repel boarders!!
It's hard to imagine climbing onto the locomotive and not banging it around to destruction. But you never know when you might have to repel boarders!!
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Found these in the Dunoon Book shop .. The Calmac one was going to get when i was last over so just left it . Went in the shop on Monday was still there . So why not !! Asked them to post it for us ..
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Nope, but the F-150 I traded in didn't either. LOL Where the trailers are will eventually be a detached two bay that will fit this and a two post lift for the Jeep. Still a couple years out for that though.
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A cheap set of 64 odd-ball screw bits, smaller sizes and temper-resistant ones. Ones I might only ever need once or twice just to have them if I ever happen to need it. Stemming from when someone assured me they were absolutely certain, trust me on this, that I needed to have a T6 screwdriver to disassemble a device, but it turned out that the screws were T5 
(unlike flat or Philips heads an oversized Torx driver won't fit)
I don't mind spending on quality tools for things I'm going to use regularly, but $70 for a bunch of bits I'm hardly ever going to use, not a chance.
(unlike flat or Philips heads an oversized Torx driver won't fit)
I don't mind spending on quality tools for things I'm going to use regularly, but $70 for a bunch of bits I'm hardly ever going to use, not a chance.
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Last weekend I did a 372 km round trip from Deva, Hunedoara County to attend a Collectors Fair in Biharia, Oradea, Bihor County, Romania.
found this little gem -
So far I have found this out about the man -
Name - Arthur George Ayto.
D.O.B. - 26 June 1896 - Grantham, Lincolnshire, England.
Father - Leeson Ayto.
Mother - Sara Ayto.
Sisters - Alice G Ayto (a year older) - Annie G Ayto (two years younger.)
Married - 06 October 1917. St. Mary-Le-Wigford's, Lincoln, Lincolnshire, England. Age on getting married - 21.
Spouse - Ada Elizabeth Victoria Mary Corner.
Residence - 1921 - 176 Ellison Street, Bracebridge, Lincoln, Lincolnshire, England. (Aged 25 years 4 months,)
Occupation - Tool Fitter and Engine Erector.
Divorced 1939 - Residence - 23 Little Church Street, Wisebech, Cambridgeshire, England.
Occupation - Fish and Chip dealer.
Military Service in World War 1.
Name - Arthur George Ayto.
Rank - Acting Corporal.
Discharge date - 15 May 1918.
Service Number - 200549
Theater of Service - France. 1-3-1915 to - - - -
Medal Awards - 1914-15 Star. British War Medal, Victory Medal (Medal Index card marked "Returned". for the Victory medal, as he was no longer at the address listed.)
found this little gem -
So far I have found this out about the man -
Name - Arthur George Ayto.
D.O.B. - 26 June 1896 - Grantham, Lincolnshire, England.
Father - Leeson Ayto.
Mother - Sara Ayto.
Sisters - Alice G Ayto (a year older) - Annie G Ayto (two years younger.)
Married - 06 October 1917. St. Mary-Le-Wigford's, Lincoln, Lincolnshire, England. Age on getting married - 21.
Spouse - Ada Elizabeth Victoria Mary Corner.
Residence - 1921 - 176 Ellison Street, Bracebridge, Lincoln, Lincolnshire, England. (Aged 25 years 4 months,)
Occupation - Tool Fitter and Engine Erector.
Divorced 1939 - Residence - 23 Little Church Street, Wisebech, Cambridgeshire, England.
Occupation - Fish and Chip dealer.
Military Service in World War 1.
Name - Arthur George Ayto.
Rank - Acting Corporal.
Discharge date - 15 May 1918.
Service Number - 200549
Theater of Service - France. 1-3-1915 to - - - -
Medal Awards - 1914-15 Star. British War Medal, Victory Medal (Medal Index card marked "Returned". for the Victory medal, as he was no longer at the address listed.)
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