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would love to give that try, what software do you use for your 3D CAD drawings?
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Fussion 360 is popular free and you need to spendtime deciphering the video instructions as they change the program with upgrades. Then you can't follow their instruction...you get like half way through and then the button to do whatever next is missing.
Then again you don't need to go to university to get a degree on it , its pretty neat what is free and opensourced. They have a paid one which can do more easily. The free one has a timeline that is very useful so during the design process you can go back and edit a drawing or feature and it will edit the final design.
Tinkercad is actually pretty neat, you can frankenstien models by chopping and adding parts sections and and actually come up with improved stuff without much skill. You need to copy the design and paste the change and repeat this process all the way along incase you find you want to change something from midpoint, ends up looking like a virual assembly line.
Seriously this last month I became a hobit, sleeping strange hours didn't go out.
Get a filament dryer and some vacuum bags to store it with a desicant bag.
PEI plate and I like the Prusa glue. Periodically clean plate with water and dishwash soap, the glue can build up, I was patching it and this was ok but sometimes ends up in a bad print and give uneven reading for the lidar(i suspect) lay on a layer of the glue and give time to dry properly and should be good. After removing models hit it with some isopropyl and clean rag(not fluffy cotton can leave behind bits of material) to remove any created oils and resmooths the surface abit and can reprint same place. Usually you can print same place anyway but some filaments can give greif.
Do models on corners and rotate the plate 90 degrees so you get 4 good surfaces.
Started using a .6mm nozzle for speed (use high speed filament)but its not as neat as the .4mm and .4mm is easy to print with.
.6 first layer is .15mm high to squish it on the plate to stick. .2 to .15 is nessesary first layer height.
If you are in the EU get the Prusa filaments. China plays the big game but its not. Their stuff here is affordable though and ok if you do everything right.
Been using esun and bambu HS filament ok.
These things and CNC machines will give back the maker to our countries. Who knows how much AI will simplify the programs, using past designs and offering alternative solutions.
If I had one thing to say about it is the first layer is everything.
Then again you don't need to go to university to get a degree on it , its pretty neat what is free and opensourced. They have a paid one which can do more easily. The free one has a timeline that is very useful so during the design process you can go back and edit a drawing or feature and it will edit the final design.
Tinkercad is actually pretty neat, you can frankenstien models by chopping and adding parts sections and and actually come up with improved stuff without much skill. You need to copy the design and paste the change and repeat this process all the way along incase you find you want to change something from midpoint, ends up looking like a virual assembly line.
Seriously this last month I became a hobit, sleeping strange hours didn't go out.
Get a filament dryer and some vacuum bags to store it with a desicant bag.
PEI plate and I like the Prusa glue. Periodically clean plate with water and dishwash soap, the glue can build up, I was patching it and this was ok but sometimes ends up in a bad print and give uneven reading for the lidar(i suspect) lay on a layer of the glue and give time to dry properly and should be good. After removing models hit it with some isopropyl and clean rag(not fluffy cotton can leave behind bits of material) to remove any created oils and resmooths the surface abit and can reprint same place. Usually you can print same place anyway but some filaments can give greif.
Do models on corners and rotate the plate 90 degrees so you get 4 good surfaces.
Started using a .6mm nozzle for speed (use high speed filament)but its not as neat as the .4mm and .4mm is easy to print with.
.6 first layer is .15mm high to squish it on the plate to stick. .2 to .15 is nessesary first layer height.
If you are in the EU get the Prusa filaments. China plays the big game but its not. Their stuff here is affordable though and ok if you do everything right.
Been using esun and bambu HS filament ok.
These things and CNC machines will give back the maker to our countries. Who knows how much AI will simplify the programs, using past designs and offering alternative solutions.
If I had one thing to say about it is the first layer is everything.
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Orange Bambu HF petg Grey eSun petg or one kilo of hell as I like to call it. Still have a kilo of orange the poor machine will be forced to deal with.
Infill adaptive cubic good for flexing parts , easy on machine
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Few things another Patagonia waterproof jacket , Dakine goretex gloves , charger , Rucksack bag cover , Sprayon waterproofer ..
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We got our tax refund, most of which will be used to pay property tax, but there was enough left over to score a toy! An imperial railway sword this time. I see them occasionally on Euro auction sites, but finally found on online at a price I could afford. This is pre-WW1, the seller told me.
It's hard to imagine climbing onto the locomotive and not banging it around to destruction. But you never know when you might have to repel boarders!!
It's hard to imagine climbing onto the locomotive and not banging it around to destruction. But you never know when you might have to repel boarders!!
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